Style Archives: The Smashing Pumpkins

The Everlasting Gaze

The Smashing Pumpkins were one of the most consistently dazzling bands of the nineties, and I’m not just talking about their music. Corgan & Co. have long aimed for world domination, and they dressed the part. From the very beginning, the band had terrific rock star style. Let’s take a look.

The Pumpkins’ debut Gish arrived in 1991 at the tail end of hair metal and just four months before Nirvana’s Nevermind. It’s a ripping, catchy, and vaguely psychedelic offering from a band that would perfect that formula on their next album. Take a look at our heroes. They look fabulous. Grunge, of course, will render them out-of-step in one season’s time, but history has proven kind to the Pumpkins. The obvious influence here is Jimi Hendrix. Corgan, Iha, and Chamberlain rock acid test button-ups that Jimi himself might’ve worn. D’arcy’s purple kimono is just perfect. And please note that she’s wearing a watch. I love when musicians do that.

A year or two later, you can see their style evolving. It’s hard to tell what’s going on with Corgan’s shirt here, but I love the rock star accessories (shades, backstage pass, comically oversized water bottle). Jimmy has clearly learned some lessons from grunge–I mean, look at that faded t-shirt–but he’s not quite ready to abandon his trusty florals. Speaking of accessories, I spy a Taz hat. D’arcy, as usual, has her look dialed in. That sheer top! You could drop 1993 D’arcy in Logan Square right now, and nobody would bat a lash. The same can be said of James. The striped skater tee, the red “LIVE” bucket hat, the bleached hair… Man, what a legend. Supreme, Noah, Aime Leon Dore: take notes.

In my opinion, the Pumpkins’ high water mark is 1995’s Mellon Collie and the Infinite Sadness. What an album. But you already know that. It’s around this time that Billy debuted his ZERO longsleeve. Man, did he love that shirt. He wore it like a uniform and then sold it right back to his fans as merch! Neato. For all his musical genius, Billy consistently serves up the weakest looks during this time. Oh, well. I do love the metallic pants. Now let’s focus on Jimmy for a second. Wow, just wow. That canary yellow jacket is something. David Byrne vibes, for sure. D’arcy seems to have chopped off her hair and borrowed a shirt from Iha’s closet for this photo shoot. It works, of course, because D’arcy can do no wrong. And James brings the heat like always. He was the hair god of the mid ’90s, and there were a lot of hair gods back then.

Obviously, a lot changed between 1995 and 1998. (If you’d like to see a process pic, click here.) The Pumpkins replaced Jimmy with a drum machine, Billy started shaving his head, and the band found a style muse in The Cure. Also, their arms grew? I love everything about Adore; if you’ve come for trash talk you’ll be sorely disappointed. The outfits here are so theatrical. You won’t be able to pull this look off for a coffee run. You might be able to steal Billy’s pants and boots or D’arcy’s dress, but I wouldn’t touch Iha’s hat with a ten foot pole. I wouldn’t be surprised if this era of Pumpkins style influenced the freaks over at Fecal Matter.

Jimmy returned as drummer in late 1998. D’arcy left the band in ‘99. The Pumpkins broke up in 2000. Turbulent times. Somewhere in the middle, the Pumpkins released Machina pts. I & II. By Pumpkins standards, the record sold poorly. It did produce some quality high contrast promo shots, though. Iha, Chamberlin, and the Pumpkins’ new bassist Melissa Auf der Mar are shown decked out in massive Victorian dresses. I can’t help but be reminded of Billy Porter’s iconic fit from the 2019 Oscars. In the foreground, Billy stands arms akimbo in a full leather kit. Leather, leather, leather. The picture manages to echo the lush industrial sound the band was going for.

The Pumpkins have lived nine lives. Members come and members go, but Corgan and his crew keep making music. A lot of that music is actually pretty good. Zeitgeist (2007) has tracks, and I love their 2018 single, “Silvery Sometimes (Ghosts).” Style-wise, it’s been an underrated reunion, too. Corgan continues to be fascinated by metallic fabric, black longsleeves, and eye makeup. Jimmy looks tough as eff in the above pic, and Iha’s rocking that white dinner jacket.

This pic shows a more casual Pumpkins. I prefer the band’s theatrical side, but they’re entitled to loosen up, too–to be the elder statesmen. Even dressed down, Billy brings the fire. Look at the fur collar on his peacoat! Those chains! And I’m happy to report that Iha remains a hair god nearly 30 years after donning the crown.

In conclusion, the Smashing Pumpkins don’t get enough credit for their style, and I hope this post helps us move toward changing that. What’s your favorite chapter of the Pumpkins style story?